A Lesson in Nonya Kitchen I: Ayam Buah Keluak

Few years ago, I took a peranakan cooking class from an old charming lady named Mrs. Yap.  She showed me from scratch how, ayam buah keluak is made.  It was my first encounter using this nuts and as a cook, I was very excited to see this new ingredient come to life.  According to Mrs. Patricia Lee from Chilli Padi Nonya Restaurant in the book by Suan, Tan Gek, Gateway to Peranakan Food Culture, Asiapac Books, Singapore, 2004: Ayam buah keluak is the "representative of Peranakan cusine."  I feel that's a quite a strong statement.  What will be the representative of Japanese cuisine?  -I have a few but it's quite difficult to pin-point exactly the specific dish.  

Buah keluak nut, from what I hear, is poisonous when eaten raw so, it always needs to be cooked.  How poisonous?  I do not have a clue.  Someone help me on that one.  The nut needs to be soaked overnite and the shells need to be brushed well in water to remove dirt.  The soaking gets rid of the dirt easily by soaking overnite and at the same time, it also ensures that the poison be removed.  The nut, then is cracked using a hammer because the shells are very hard.  The inside, which kind of looks like kalamata olives is taken out made into a paste and then shoved back into the nutshell.  Rempah (mire poix) is made using standard ingredients -shallots, blachan, lemongrass, candlenut, and dried chili; all pound to a puree.  Rempah is then fried really well with oil.  Chicken, seasonings, buah keluak and tamarind is added and braised till the gravy is at the right consisitency.  The dish then is cooled and rested overnite so that the chicken absorbs the flavor of the sauces.  It kind of resembles, chicken braised with tomato, onions and kalamata olives..... 

海南鶏飯食堂をオープンする前、シンガポールでペラナカン料理をノニャ（ノニャはペラナカン女性、男性はババといいます）であるヤップさんから教わった。シンガポールの代表料理（チキンライス・バークーテー・チリクラブ等）は良く知っていたが、シンガポール料理のベースとなるペラナカン料理を全く知らなかった。そしてその中でも代表というと、アヤム・ブア・ケルアッ(ayam buah keluak)である。アヤム＝チキンそしてブア・ケルアッはインドネシアで取れるナッツの一種。この料理は鶏とナッツを一緒に煮込んだシチューのような料理。まずは泥だらけのブアクルアッを前日に水につけ込んでおきます。そうすると、当日簡単に汚れを落とす事ができると同時に毒を取り除く事ができるそうだ。ヤップ氏が言っていたのだが、ブアケルアッは生で食べると毒があり危険だそうで、必ず火を通す必要があるという事だ。ナッツは途轍もなく固いのでハンマーでたたき、中の黒オリーブのような実を取り除き、ペーストにして、まだナッツの中に入れる。これを、通常のレンパ（ベースとなる香味野菜－エシャロット・レモングラス・ブラチャン等）を油で炒めた後に、チキン・ブアケルアッ・タマリンドを足して、煮込みます。カレー同様、翌日のほうが味がしみわたり旨い。